“黑暗”料理？不，它是中国人的“黄金”皮蛋

6月10日，是中国的传统节日端午节。按照习俗，这一天不少地方的中国人要品尝咸鸭蛋和皮蛋这两种美味。其中，皮蛋以其爽滑的口感、醇香的风味和绵长的回味，深受中国人的喜爱。尤其是在炎热的夏天，一盘凉拌皮蛋不仅开胃，还能消暑。然而，皮蛋因其暗黑的色泽，让一些初次接触的外国人退避三舍，戏谑其“黑暗料理”。

▲晶[百家号vnmp.cn]莹剔透的黄金皮蛋

近日，成都大学中国-东盟艺术学院的俄罗斯籍留学生Began Irina，在网络上看到关于成都金堂的非物质文化遗产“黄包蛋”销售火爆的新闻后，决定前往金堂五凤溪古镇一探究竟。

▲BeganIrina品尝已经制作好的黄金皮蛋

当Began Irina踏入五凤溪古镇的那一刻，她仿佛进入了一个时[百家号vnmp.cn]光穿梭的通道。古镇四周被青山环绕，绿树成荫，鸟语花香，仿佛一幅天然的山水画卷。走在蜿蜒曲折的石板路上，两旁是保存完好的清代民居，斑驳的墙壁和精致的雕花窗棂无不透露出历史的沧桑与厚重。她被这座古镇独特的景色深深吸引，仿佛每一块石砖、每一根木梁都在向她讲述着悠久的故事。

▲不少游客驻足在黄包蛋的店铺门前，[百家号vnmp.cn]一边品尝一边购买

在这样一个美丽的古镇中，Began Irina对即将体验的皮蛋制作过程充满了期待。她对记者表示，这不仅是一段美食之旅，更是一场文化的洗礼。在五凤溪古镇的悠久历史和美丽景色中，她对中国传统文化的理解与热爱更加深刻。

▲金堂黄包蛋第三代传人黄德意正在向BeganIrina介绍皮蛋制作的流程[百家号vnmp.cn]

当Began Irina见到金堂黄包蛋的第三代传人黄德意时，这位有着几十年皮蛋制作经验的手艺人热情地向她介绍了制作皮蛋的各个步骤，并邀请她亲身参与制作。

▲ Began Irina正在尝试学习包蛋

▲黄包蛋第三代传人黄德意（右）和第四代传人黄亚培（左）正在一边交流一边包蛋，他们是父子关系

首先，需要挑选上[百家号vnmp.cn]好的鸭蛋。她小心翼翼地从一篮新鲜的鸭蛋中挑出几个形状均匀、表面光滑的鸭蛋。接着，黄德意为她展示如何制作包蛋灰。这一步骤需要将石灰、柴灰、碱和盐按一定比例混合，并均匀搅拌。Began Irina惊讶于这种传统工艺的独特配方，同时也为这种制作材料的简朴而感到好奇。

▲一名顾客进到黄包蛋的店铺内亲自挑选皮蛋[百家号vnmp.cn]

在黄德意的指导下，Began Irina开始将混合好的包蛋灰均匀地抹在每个鸭蛋上。这一过程需要手法的娴熟与耐心，Began Irina慢慢掌握了要领，虽然初次操作显得有些生疏，但她的脸上始终洋溢着愉快的笑容。

▲ 端午节期间，来自全国各地的订单激增，黄包蛋的工作人员正在加班加点的进行打包工作

完成包裹步[百家号vnmp.cn]骤后，皮蛋需要被密封一周，然后再晾晒一周。虽然Began Irina无法亲眼看到最终成品，但她对此充满期待。黄德意还特意为她准备了一些已经制作好的皮蛋，让她可以现场品尝。

Began Irina剥开一个已经制作完成的皮蛋，看到晶莹剔透的蛋白和金黄色的蛋黄。她轻轻咬下一口，入口的滑嫩和独特的风味让她惊叹[百家号vnmp.cn]不已。Began Irina表示，皮蛋的美味超出了她的想象，尤其是在了解了其背后的制作过程后，她对这种传统美食有了更深的敬意和喜爱。

通过这次体验，Began Irina不仅学到了皮蛋的制作技艺，更深入感受到了中国传统手工艺的精妙与传承的价值。她对黄德意及其家族几代人对这一技艺的坚持与热爱深表钦佩，也[百家号vnmp.cn]希望能将这份美食文化分享给更多的朋友。

▲为了应对端午期间激增的订单，第四代传人黄亚培最近十分忙碌

据五凤溪古镇镇政府工作人员介绍，2023年该地共销往全国各地800余万个皮蛋，销售额达到1290余万元。当Began Irina了解到该镇皮蛋的销售情况时，她大为震惊。

这次探访不仅让Began Irina[百家号vnmp.cn]深刻了解了中国传统食品的制作过程，也为她纠正了对皮蛋的误解。正如黄德意所言，皮蛋这种中华传统美食，在精心制作和正确烹饪后，必定能获得更多外国人的认可与喜爱。

Scary food? Nope, It’s the Chinese Gold Century Egg

The traditional Chine[百家号vnmp.cn]se Duanwu Festival is celebrated on June 10. Customarily, eating zongzi is indispensable. Besides zongzi, many Chinese people also savor salted duck e[百家号vnmp.cn]ggs and Century eggs (pi dan, 皮蛋 in Chinese). Century eggs, with their smooth texture, rich flavor, and lingering taste, are especially loved by the C[百家号vnmp.cn]hinese. In the hot summer, a plate of sliced Century eggs not only whets the appetite but also cools the body. However, the dark color of Century eggs[百家号vnmp.cn] often scares off foreigners who taster the eggs for the first time. The Century eggs are dubbed as a kind of "scary Chinese food"

Began Irina, an over[百家号vnmp.cn]seas student from Russia now studying at the College of China-ASEAN Arts of Chengdu University, decided to visit the ancient town of Wufengxi in Jinta[百家号vnmp.cn]ng County to learn about the making of Huangbaodan" (a type of Century egg) after she read news online about the booming sales of the eggs.

The moment [百家号vnmp.cn]Began stepped into the old town, she felt as if she had entered a time tunnel. Surrounded by green mountains, shaded by trees, and filled with the sou[百家号vnmp.cn]nds of birds and the scent of flowers, it seemed like a natural landscape painting. Walking along the winding stone paths, flanked by well-preserved Q[百家号vnmp.cn]ing Dynasty houses with weathered walls and intricately carved windows, she was captivated by the towns unique scenery. It felt like every brick and b[百家号vnmp.cn]eam was telling her an ancient story. In such a beautiful setting, Began looked forward to experiencing the process of making Century eggs. She told r[百家号vnmp.cn]eporters that this was not just a culinary journey but also a cultural immersion. Through the towns rich history and beautiful scenery, her understand[百家号vnmp.cn]ing and love for Chinese traditional culture deepened.

When Began Irina met Huang Deyi, the third-generation inheritor of Jintangs Huangbaodan, the cra[百家号vnmp.cn]ftsman with decades of experience warmly introduced her the steps of making Century eggs and invited her to participate.

First, she needed to select th[百家号vnmp.cn]e finest duck eggs. She carefully chose a few eggs from a basket. Next, Huang demonstrated how to make the egg paste. This step involved mixing lime, [百家号vnmp.cn]wood ash, alkaline substances, and salt in right proportions and stirring them evenly. Began was amazed by the unique formula of this traditional craf[百家号vnmp.cn]t and was curious about the simplicity of the materials used.

Under Huangs guidance, Began began to evenly coat each duck egg with the mixed paste. Thi[百家号vnmp.cn]s process required skill and patience. Though she was a bit clumsy at first, she gradually got the hang of it, all the while smiling happily.

After coa[百家号vnmp.cn]ting, the Century eggs needed to be sealed for a week and then dried for another week. Although Began couldnt see the final product firsthand, she was[百家号vnmp.cn] full of anticipation. Huang Deyi also prepared some ready-made century eggs for her to taste on the spot.

Began Irina peeled open a finished century e[百家号vnmp.cn]gg, revealing its translucent egg white and golden yolk. She took a bite, and the smooth texture and unique flavor surprised her. Began Irina said the[百家号vnmp.cn] taste of the century egg exceeded her expectations, and learning about its production process deepened her respect and love for this traditional deli[百家号vnmp.cn]cacy.

Through this experience, Began Irina not only learned the technique of making century eggs but also deeply felt the exquisite craftsmanship and c[百家号vnmp.cn]ultural heritage of Chinese traditional handcrafts. She expressed her admiration for Huang Deyi and his familys dedication and passion for this craft [百家号vnmp.cn]over generations, hoping to share this culinary culture with more friends.

According to Wufengxi town officials, in 2023, the town sold over 8 million [百家号vnmp.cn]century eggs nationwide, with sales reaching more than 12.9 million yuan. Began Irina was astounded by the sales figures.

This visit not only gave Bega[百家号vnmp.cn]n Irina a profound understanding of the production process of traditional Chinese food but also corrected her misconceptions about century eggs.

As Hua[百家号vnmp.cn]ng Deyi said, with careful production and proper cooking, this traditional Chinese delicacy is sure to gain more appreciation and love from foreigners[百家号vnmp.cn].

成都日报锦观新闻

策划 张婷婷

统筹 何宏 吕甲 陈小婷

记者/图片/视频 刘阳 詹妮 何思田

责任编辑 常莉娟

编辑 王钟婧玥